Monday, June 1, 2009

Metcalfe: pre-trip post

It's Monday, I'm sore from Sunday's climbing and bouldering ... mostly from the bouldering ... , but looking forward to this coming weekend's trip to Metcalfe. Hopefully the weather cooperates. Metcalfe rock is close to Collingwood Ontario which sits on the south end of Georgian bay and is part of the northern Niagara Escarpment. The plan is to arrive at Craigleith Provincial Park on Friday evening.

Some sport climbs, complied mostly from, that I hope to check out.

The Gully area:

1) Revenge for the Fires -5.9,

i) bolted (>12 draws including anchors)
ii) Easy sport route with some nice pockety moves. Start on first bolted line on the left behind the giant free-standing pillar. Climb up first two bolts to a ledgey section. Walk up the ledges, but don't trip because it's a 35 foot ground fall with the runout. Follow the line of bolts on the
left. Finish with massive jugs at the top.

2) Pump it Hottie, Pump it -5.10a

i) bolted (>12 draws including anchors)
ii) Easy sport route (mildly sustained) Start the same as 'Revenge for the Fires' to the ledges. Take the line of bolts that moves right. It is easily possible to start the route directly from the bottom, but there are no bolts (I'm not sure, but tri-cams might place here)

The Boiler Plate Wall:

1) Vig -5.8 (or Called Out)
i) Sport - bolts
ii) Around the corner from Burrglass - new sport route not in the guide book. Less than 10 bolts. Felt 5.8ish --- others thought it to be 5.7. It is named after Vig who did the bolting.
iii) Located about 5 metres to the right of "Chimney". Starts from on top of
a block. Face climbing with thin cracks and side pulls up to easier ledges and pockets.

Overhanging Wall:

1) Superman-5.9

1) Top rope / no top anchors
2) Start just right of 'Harry's Route.' The start is polished and missing holds but still easily doable. Work your way up to a moderate sized ledge, then layback a sweet crack to the top. It is possible to skip the start by chimneying up on the right and traversing to the ledge. 5.9 in the
guide book, but with the proper start it needs retro-grading

The Rubble Heap:

1) Waco Lies (Not sure) -5.8

i)First bolted line left of Arete Dreams. Great to fourth bolt then run out to anchors on blocky rock
ii) 55ft, bolts

2) Slabbus (not sure) -5.8

i) 5 Bolts, 50ft
ii) Bolted line on slab North end of the Anvil. 2 pitches. First pitch to anchors is 5.8. Second pitch to bolted anchors is 5.11b

3) Deception Day (Not sure) -5.9

i) 60ft, Bolted, protection marked as X
ii) bolted line next left of Waco Lies. 9 bolts. Fun line but deceptively steep. Watch some loose rock on lower middle section. Second last to last bolt is run out. Good Climb for the grade.
iii) Lower off or rap off

4) Arete Dreams (not sure) -5.10a

i) First bolted line left of "Quantum Leap". 4 bolts to quick clips
ii)Climb up the arete, stay on or to the right of the arete. Going left makes the climb a 5.9 at best.

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