Friday, August 28, 2009
Project at Pneu
I returned Baby Pneu with Guillaume in an effort to climb harder face climbs. I started on vertical face, a 5.10a called "Sexy white pimp cars". The distance between the second and third bolt was a real mindf*ck given that the most obivous line set you up for a big pendulum. So not will to quit I anchored in to the second bolt, pulled out a load of rope, made a new knot which I clipped to my harness (so it was not a ground fall if the bolt blew), worked up on the draw and barely stick clipped the third bolt. Now toproped to the third bolt I finished the climb as it is easy crack climbing past the third bolt to the anchors . Then I sent it again cleanly from the ground up on toprope. I know I could lead it but somehow I don't feel it is worth it. After that gong-show I cleanly lead a 5.10d (name unknown) with a slight overhang. The moves are long and pully on no feet at some points but the bolting is such that I was not worried about taking a fall. So in that sense the 5.10d is easier because there are no bad fall potentials to think about. Beside the 5.10d is a 5.12c which has become my project. I worked it on toprope and I managed to complete the climb but linking the moves with be difficult. No, my climbing has not improved that much; this 5.12c is suited to my style of climbing as there are still many 11's that I have no business being on. I'm starting to realize more and more that the ratings in the guidebook are bullsh*t to a certain extent. As aways there are climbs which I have done and those that need work.