Thursday, October 22, 2009

Fried Weiners

It was cold, overcast and damp in Gatineau on Wednesday which made for some hard climbing on cold fingers. As the day passed you could feel the temperature dropping off. As I lead up Sausages I felt like garbage and had a serious lack of focus. It was like I had never clipped a draw before. A strange opening to the day where I would pull the hardest moves I have ever done while leading on real rock.

I started to work the crux of Sausages direct 5.12a/b on toprope. Out left to a small crimp at the bottom of the direct section, move feet over, right hand to small (2-3 finger) side pull crimp, left hand up to crimp on a pink granite rail, high right foot, pull, lock and crimp really hard with my right hand on the worst crimp ever by the 4th bolt. With a lot of tension I stepped out high to the ledge (below the lip) with my left foot, cut my right foot and moved it under the left to smear on small ridge, then I came off while moving my left up another 6 inches above the lip into the bomber foot hold. I tried a couple more time and finally stuck my left foot but came off after rocking over to hit a three finger sloping crimp (on pink granite) with my left hand. I decided to jug up and practice the movement between the sloping crimp and the cave. Finally, I lowered below the crux, rested, and to my surprise climbed through to stick the sloping crimp, then my right up to triangle crimp above the bolt, a pop to cave with my left, to grabbing a jug for a rest.

On my first lead attempt I screwed up the high foot because I just forgot the sequence. What a waste of energy. So down to the ground to rest. On the second attempt I missed the last triangle crimp. On the third attempt I moved through the crux clean and felt totally gassed as I grabbed the rest jug. After shaking out I moved my feet high and crossed over to a good triangle. At this point you should stand up, move to a pinch, then on to the final jug and clip. However, being pumped and not thinking straight I founded an undercling in the cave from which I made a tenuous clip. The upside of this clip is it gave me the confidence to stand up to the pinch and finish the climb. A late session epic for me.

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