Sunday, March 28, 2010

Rest and rain

This weekend's climbing was a wash due to my wimpiness. On Friday I woke up to, after being at the gym Thursday, a nasty shoulder ache, stiff fingers and a cold weather report for the weekend. It was not so much the 3 degrees C forecast but the wind that made me wimp out. Now, Sunday night, it is raining. So what is one to do ... other than looking a new gear on the MEC website? ... You look at guidebooks and watch climbing movies, of course. So I popped in the First Ascent video and pulled out the Montagne d'Argent guidebook.

For some reason I really like climbing at Montagne d'Argent; I've been there three times [1,2,3]. On my next trip I would like to get some trad in, as well as, some harder sport. After looking through the guidebook there are several climbs in the M&M, L'hippocampe, Amphitheatre and Le Fou areas that are high on the list to attempt.

A return to M&M: I've climbed here before on TR but now it is time to send some of this stuff on gear. In particular, route #5 M&M 5.8 and if I'm feeling really adventurous #12 Psychokrak 5.10a with 1 bolt. I flashed Psychokrak on TR feeling really tired after two days of climbing so I know I can do it. Yeah yeah, I know, everyone is a hero on toprope.

L'hippocampe: I have not climbing in this area before so this is a must on the next trip. It is all too easy to climb stuff you have done because it is familiar. Anyway, I think a #9 L'hypothenuse 5.7+ trad into #10 L'arete des urubus 5.10b sport looks like a pretty cool 36m linkup. Route #13, Tally-Ho 5.11b looks interesting too.

Amphitheatre and Le Fou: Again, lots of stuff here to attempt. I can see doing Dad's 5.10b sport and maybe try Cracker Joe 5.9+ trad.

So much to climb ... never enough time.

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