I was back in the CWM, with Matt and Bob, last Friday climbing more trad and some sport while the area is still open to climbing. I warmed up by leading bolt line #1 on the Spindrift wall and sending Jugness on TR after Bob lead it. Next up, was The Reaper a short 5.9 2 bolt climb on a slightly overhanging wall. I sent it once on TR and then lead it. I should have just lead it to begin with but I was worried about clipping the second bolt. As it turns out the bolts can be clipped from solid positions and protect the crux well.
After a snack, it was off the Shpinava Wall on the south side of the CWM. I decided to lead Fruit Tart. A 5.8 three star Gatineau route that moves up a large corner into a roof and finishes on a slab. I started into the climb placing a #0.3 BD cam, #6 BD stopper and a #0.4 BD cam as I went. As I approached the roof I had trouble placing gear that I could trust which lead to wasting a lot of time and second guessing. In the end I down climbed and lowered off my #0.4 cam. The sun had not come around the corner yet so I was also cold. After sitting in the sun it was time for round two. I also put my coat on to keep warm while climbing. This time I slotted a nut above the #0.4 cam and moved up into the roof. I put in a #0.5 BD cam to protect me while I spent, what seemed like forever, fiddling to get a #3 BD cam in. I put 60cm runners on both the #0.5 and #3 to prevent rope drag. Getting over the roof bit was a battle as I felt over the lip for good holds. Once on the outter face I put in a #2 BD cam before rocking over onto my right foot to stand up and finally clip a bolt. The rest of the climbing from here is easy to the anchors.
The last climb of the day was Raikush 5.10c 5 bolts + gear on TR. This climb is beside Fruit tart so it also has a roof to pull. The roof move is not the crux. The crux is on the very thin slab near the second bolt. After working out the slab I sent it clean on TR so I can see a lead attempt in the future. I should also say that between the last bolt and the anchors is tricky too.