Saturday, April 3, 2010

Scorcher at Home Cliff

Sunshine and 25 C made the base of Home Cliff into an oven on Friday. I headed out with David, Kate and Bob. My 3 liters of water did not last long. Amusingly, David managed to forget his harness in Ottawa so with Bob's advice he constructed one out of webbing.

To warm up, I lead piton highway, a 5.7 classic, on gear and 3 bolts. It was a bit tricky in the dihedral and for some reason nothing seemed to place the way I wanted. Next up, I started in on Lavender 5.9 gear and 5 bolts. The bottom is gear (3 cams) and the upper half is bolts. I think the crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt. However, the top bit, just before the anchors was tricky too but maybe because it was a little wet. Also, a some point I missed a bolt and had a 15 foot runout going. After getting down I felt exhausted from the sun beating down.

After some rest I worked on the roof on the Original route. I worked out some beta but it will need some more tries. To escape the heat we moved up toward the waterfall on the left of main corner. I onsighted One Up 5.7 on gear. This climb requires some thought and small gear; I made sure my sequence was good before doing the crux bit.

I never did get over to the Cotter Crack, maybe next time.

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