Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Anti-Gravity, a first glance
This afternoon I went to Downunder for the first time this year. I have been climbing moderate routes on gear for about 1.5 months so I was worried about getting crushed by the Downunder routes. For us mere morals Downunder can be an intimidating place. So after Mike ran laps on Pita de Roma 5.11a to warm up I decide to give it shot on TR. Lame, I know. In my defense, Pita was at my lead limit last year. Anyway I was surprised that I sent it clean. Next up, El Ninjo 5.12a and again Mike runs a couple laps. I jump on TR, fail at the crux, rest and finish the climb. I gave it two more goes before the day was done but I just could not get it clean. In the mean time Mike works the Beast 5.13b and sends Exodus 5.12d. Just to see how hard it is, I gave the lower crux on the Beast a couple tries for fun. Mike was also kind enough to run up Anti-Gravity 5.12c so I could try it on TR. It is a fantastic route but super hard from both a technical and power stand point.