Monday, May 10, 2010

Corruption Buttress

Hit up the Corruption Buttress with Rachel, Bob and Haley today. It was a cold morning at 5 C with a 15 km/hr wind so we opted for cover in the Western Cwm. I warmed up on Martha Steward 5.8, a 2 bolt near-vertical climb. It is a fairly easy onsight with the crux at the top. Next, it was onto Corruption 5.9, 1 bolt and gear. The crux, which is hard for 5.9, is well protected by a bolt but gear is sketchy higher up. There are small and I mean small cracks for micro stoppers and RPs (I did not have any with me). The Black diamond #4 and #5 stoppers are too big because their cables are too fat and get in the way. However, working higher you can get them in. Away, this is a no fall zone because if the gear goes you are hitting a big ledge. So in the end I, pulled my 2 crappy nut placements, down climbed to the bolt and retreated to the ledge. After some "Gatineau Mountaineering" up a dirty 5.1 (?) I put a toprope on Corruption. With a clean send on TR I found some better placements and holds so next time I think it will go.

As a side note:

The galvanized steel mallions that connect the sport clips to anchors on the Corruption Buttress (specifically Enron and Corruption) are reacting with the hangers and are rusting. The anchors on Corruption are the most affected. The anchors are certianly sound at this point but perhaps the mallions should be removed and/or replaced.

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