Monday, May 17, 2010
It is the nature of the beast
It was back to Downunder with Mike today for some sport climbing. I warmed up by leading Sausages 5.10c and Mike did a couple laps as well. Then I decided to give Catwoman 5.11b a go on lead. I climbed through to the second bolt before heading out left but got lost while looking for holds and I had to take. On Mike's advice I moved out right and found the climbing more straight foward. I had to take again near the top as I got pumped looking for a hold to clip the anchors on. Now that I know where the holds are it should go next time. Next up I TR'ed El Ninjo 5.12a after Mike ran a couple laps on it. I found it really hard today. Catwoman took more out of me than I had thought. Mike has been working the Beast 5.13b this spring and the last time he had linked the upper and lower sections. So, today was game day (in mine mind anyway). On the first burn Mike push through the lower section to the no hands rest before the second crux. Mike looked strong but got shut down by a wicked barn door after releasing his toe hook. It was clear this beta was not going to work so he worked out a new approach and returned to the ground. It was again my turn to get pumped out on El Ninjo again and I did as expected. Mike looked a bit tried on the lower section of his next burn on the Beast but pull through to the rest. After sticking the second crux; I knew he was going to do it. Nice send Mike! After resting I thrashed around on the Beast on TR to clean it. I was mostly aiding on draws. It is clear that I had no business on a 5.13. The holds are heinous.