Sunday, August 1, 2010

A weekend climbing

I spent two days at Montagne d'Argent this past weekend climbing with lots of different people. Saturday was a bit of a slow day though; I think I was still sore from the gym. A list of Saturdays efforts:

La petite biere area:

Deuxieme biere 5.3 sport 7 bolts 35m
-This is a nice way to get the grand canyon area. An easy climb which can be done with packs in approach shoes.

Grand Canyon area:

Chute Libre 5.8 Trad + 1 bolt 20m
- This is a straight forward climb with one or two 5.8 moves on the slab at the top.

Les Petits Chiens <> 5.11c Trad + 4 bolts 20m
- The gear portion is easy 5.8 climbing and the real business is protected by bolts. I took a few falls between the first and second bolt which is most likely the crux. After the second bolt the climbing is strenuous into a very thin upper slab. It would take some more work to get this clean.

Le Sacre du Printemps 5.9 Trad 25m
-I got just above the halfway mark but I got spooked by the gear and downclimbed. I pulling my gear as I went.

M&M area:

M&M 5.8 Trad 23m
-This is a must do lead with lots of gear options.

Krakabra 5.7+ Trad 25m
-Similar to M&M but the feet and rests are much better. The gear is larger on this one, #2 and #3 BD camolots. There is a thread through about 3/4 of the way up it you are short on gear.

Sundays efforts:

M&M area:

-on TR as a warm-up after Dan lead it.

Psychokrak 5.10a Trad + 1 bolt 25m
-The tricky part is traversing from the main crack, as it thins out on to the slab, to the second hand crack to the right. This is my first 10 on gear.

Pop Corn 5.10a Trad + 5 bolts 25m
-The trad portion is a fantastic finger crack that protects well. The upper section which is protected by bolts is mentally demanding with big moves between the bolts. A much harder climb then Psychokrak.

Sonatine 5.12a sport 8a 23m
-Worked this on toprope for awhile, figured out some beta, but I did not get too far.

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