Tuesday, October 5, 2010

McKenzie Pond Bouldering

I headed to McKenzie Pond in the Daks with a group of Ottawa boulders on Saturday. I was not sure what to expect. As you know I'm a roped climber and in particular I've been climbing mostly trad this year so a bouldering trip is not my usual thing. On the other hand I boulder twice a week at the gym for strength training so I'm not a total gumby. The nice thing was that the people on the trip are easy going and I was not really concerned about feeling pressure to sending anything.

After a 3 hour drive we parked on the side of the road and started the grueling 2 minute approach to the boulders. We warmed up one the V0 slab and a couple V1/V2 problems in area 1. The granite is super textured and can be hard on the finger tips if you are not used to it. However, the texture in combination with the cool temps made for some awesome friction which comes in handy on a number of problems.

V0 slab with crack
V0 slab with crack

Kyla in green
Kyla on a V2

Also in area 1 is a V5 called Slobadon which looked do able to me so I gave it a burn. I surprised myself on the first go by doing most of the problem so I knew it would go. I think it took about 5 try to top out. The top is a tad scary but with lots of Montagne d'Argent slabbiness under my belt I just took my time and worked it out.

Top Out
Photo: Andrew Pallek

Rebar V4 is an interesting problem that is very different from the hard crimps of Slobadon. Like most lip traverses this is about contact strength and body position under the sloppy lip. I used slightly different beta by going low at the start. Rebar is also a long problem that can get pumpy by the end as you round the corner to top it out.

Low Beta
Me on Rebar
Photo: Andrew Pallek

Matt chillin' after his burn. Once you hit the end of the traverse you top it out.

Slot machine V5 is a classic for sure with a difficult start off the corner up to the slot. In the photo below my right hand is in the slot and by slot I mean a half pad three finger crimp. The next move is the high foot, lock off on the slot, hit the crack at the top, muscle up and top out.

Lock Off
Photo: Andrew Pallek

Thrust Fault, although only V3 this is a must do problem. I got it on my second attempt and would have flashed it if I had not mucked up my feet on the first go. The top out is not gimme so stay focused after hitting the lip jug.

Photo: Andrew Pallek

1 comment:

  1. Thrust Fault is one of the best V3 in North America.