Sunday, October 17, 2010

Saturday report, Eastern Block

A group of us headed up to Eastern Block on Saturday to get in some local climbing. It had rained the day before and overnight so as expected it was rather wet. Temptation 5.11b was dry but I had never climbed more than the first couple moves on toprope so it was out. Mr. Clean 5.8+ was wet but looked do able. After clipping the first bolt I started to wonder if I had bitten off more than I could chew. Most of the good hold were dripping and trusting my feet became troublesome. After a tricky second bolt on a sketch wet foot I final got onto some dry rock for a easy 3rd bolt. Now it was time to weigh my options. Climb a sopping wet slabbly crux or traverse and climb the last slabbly half of Temptation. Despite not having climbed the upper half of the 11 it was dry and looked reasonable.

The top of Temptation was no gimme but I worked it out after down climbing twice to rest after figuring out the moves. So since the top of Temptation can go clean on lead I decided it was time to work the bottom sequence out. After 8 or so goes at the crux I final climbed the route clean on toprope. Redpoint in the future? Maybe, the first two clips will be hard and will definitely need to be worked into the sequence of the climb. Once past the second bolt you get a good rest and the climb eases to mid 5.10 climbing.

No comments:

Post a Comment