Thursday, October 28, 2010
A windy day at Calabogie
I hit up Calabogie today with Richard and ran into a crew from MEC as well. The weather was gray and windy which made for some chilly climbing at times. We warmed up by leading a few moderate mixed climbs and then went to work on the direct start of Vulcan Mind. Off the block it is very much a boulder problem. There is a dyno off crimps out to the arete on bad feet, V4 or V5. I was pretty happy, even though I was just toproping, to get this on my first try. The climbing is then sustained 11-ish to a rest where if on lead you would place a cam. After that, muscle up the crack and arete to mantle onto a big ledge, rest, and finish on good holds. We also work on a technical 12a-ish route that climbs over a series of roofs. A good day of climbing.