Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Lists are good, spring season review

It is now mid June, hard to believe really, and it feels like very little outdoor climbing has been done. Of course April was a wash with Ottawa setting a new rainfall record and there is a myriad of other reasons (excuses). Bugs and heat being the top two. So it is time to make a list to see where I stand in terms of this year's goals.


From my January 1st post, A new year for climbing:

  • Get more multi-pitch experience. Go to Weir (Yellow Line, Black and White), the Dacks (Endless list of climbs here) and the Whites Mountains (Moby Grape and may others).
  • Look for/climb new/old routes at Calabogie.
  • Climb more 5.10 gear routes at Montagne d'Argent.
  • Just get out and climb!


Note that I will continue to update the lists as I climb more stuff.
Last Update: Nov 6th

New routes: attempted or completed
  • Flakely flake, 5.4, gear, Calabogie
    • April 2nd, onsight
  • Poussinet / Le lapin au tambour linkup, 5.4, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, onsight
  • Colonel Kirtz, 5.10a, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, lead attempt, fell a couple times
    • Sept 11th, lead attempt, clean on all but top out
  • Hannibal Lecter, 5.9+, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, flashed
    • Sept 11th, cruised on TR 
  • Diedre Maboul, 5.5-, 17m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, onsight
  • La paume de Bouddha, 5.10d, 10m, 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, worked the moves on lead
  • Encore! mon lapin, 5.4+, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, seconded and tried direct start (5.10?)
  • Coeur vaillant, 5.10b, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou 
    • May 13th, lead attempt, fell at crux a couple time, sent clean on TR after lead attempt
  • La Saint-Ambroise, 5.9, 20m, 6 bolts, 20m, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • L'ecaille du dragon, 5.8, 25m, 3 bolts + gear, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • La Gaillarde 5.8, 25m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • Conjonction de cellulaires, 5.9, 14m, 5 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Vertigineux
    • May 24th, onsight
  • La Valse, 5.6, 20m, gear, Val David, Chico et Valse - Mont Cesaire
    • July 3rd, onsight
  • La Brute, 5.8, 15m ?, gear, Val David, Chico et Valse - Mont Cesaire
    • July 3rd, onsight
  • Mr Clean, 5.9, 60 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, pumpy warm up; rested on a cam
  • Big Bertha, 5.6, 60 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, onsight
  • Fun CiTy, 5.7, 100 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, onsight
  • Fun Country, 5.10, 100 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, many attempts at the flared crack crux over the bulge
  • Yakapodu, 5.6, 90 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, down climbed to the ground from within 20 feet of the top; it got in my head too much
  • Gobelin, 5.7, 18m , gear, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Sevrage, 5.10b, sport 5 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Goglu, 5.10b, 15m sport 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Fudge, 5.10c, 15m sport 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, clean on TR 
  • P1 Balck and White, 5.9, gear, Weir, Black and White Wall
    • Sept 17th, onsight
  • Apportez votre vin, 5.10,  sport 4 bolts,Weir, Club Sandwich Wall
    • Sept 17th, lead attempt, grabbed a draw to clip it - tricky for the grade  
  • unknown, 5.6 ish, gear, Weir, ??? Wall
    • Sept 17th, onsight 
Previously climbed routes: repeats and  TRs
  • Route B, 5.4, gear, Gatineau North Wall
    • February 5th, lead solo
    • June 11th, lead solo
    • Oct 1st, lead
  • Retro bolted Calabogie Sunset direct, no grade (5.7), 3 bolts + gear, Calabogie
    • March 20, lead
    • April 2nd, lead
    • Nov 6th, lead
  • New line left of First Flight, no grade (5.8), 3 bolts + gear, Calabogie,
    • March 20, lead plus a repeat on TR
    • April 2nd, lead
    • Sept 5th, lead and TR
    • Nov 6th, lead 
  • Vulcan mind direct, no grade (5.11+), 3 bolts +gear, Calabogie
    • March 20, TR
    • Sept 5th, TR clean
    • Nov 6th, TR clean, felt like I could lead it although the pro is thin at the top.
  • Noname between Phaser's on Kill and Beam me up Scotty (11d?), bolts and gear, Calabogie
    • Sept 5th, TR with many hangs
  • Left noname slab, no grade (5.6), bolts, Calabogie 
    • April 2nd, lead
  • First Flight, 5.8, bolts, Calabogie
    • April 2nd, TR
    • Nov 6th, lead
  • Piton Highway, 5.7, 3 bolts + gear, Gatineau, Home Cliff
    • April 3rd, lead
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • Peggy, 5.7, 1 bolt + 1 pin + gear, Gatineau, Home Cliff
    • April 3rd, TR
  • Neruda, 5.6, gear, Gatineau Cave Wall
    • April 17th, lead solo
    • May 8th, lead
    • June 11th, lead
    • July 2nd, lead solo
    • July 9th, lead
    • Oct 1st, lead and TR lap
  • Al on the run, 5.11c, 4 bolts, Gatineau, Cave Wall
    • May 8th, 2 TR attempts, 2nd go was clean no hangs
    • July 9th, 2 laps on TR
    • Oct 1st, TR lap
  • Security, 5.10d, 2 bolts + gear, Gatineau, Cave Wall
    • May 8th, 2 lead attempts plus once clean on TR
    • July 9th, TR
    • Oct 1st, TR lap and clean lead (1st bolt pre-clipped)
  • P1 Lollypops, 5.9+, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, lead
  • P2 Maudit fou, 5.10b, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, lead
  • Krakatoa, 5.9+, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, TR
  • Sausages, 5.10c, 5 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, lead
  • El Ninjo, 5.12a, 4 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, 2 TR attempts, best attempt with one hang
  • Catwomen, 5.11b, 3 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, lead attempt, hang at 2nd bolt
  • Route C, 5.5, gear, Gatineau North Wall
    • June 11th, lead solo
    • Oct 1st, lead
  • Main corner, 5.3, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • One up, 5.7, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • "nameless" crack, 5.10b, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, first lead attempt - lots of hanging
  • Mr Toady's Dihedral, 5.8, gear + 1 bolt, CWM, Reaper
    • Oct 1st, TR lap
  • Still another climb, 5.4, gear, CWM, North Wall
    • Oct 1st, lead

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