Tuesday, September 13, 2011

La Petit folie, part deux

Boxing or crack climbing during a flood?
Note I'm wearing a different colour shirt too!
I ended up making a spontaneous trip to Montagne d`Argent on Sunday after getting a call from Gen.
  • Colonel Kirtz, 5.10a, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, 2nd lead attempt: I decided to tape my hands for this crack after the shredding I received last time. I climbed clean all the way to the top but I messed up the top out. It will go next time for sure.
  • Hannibal Lecter, 5.9+, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I cruised Hannibal on TR after Gen lead it. 
  • Diedre Maboul, 5.5-, 17m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, onsight: This dirty crack was the warm up and I would not recommend it to anyone unless you like slinging roots for pro. Also there are no anchors so once you have belayed up your second there is a walk off to climbers right.
  • La paume de Bouddha, 5.10d, 10m, 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I worked the moves on lead. It does not feel like a particularly hard climb and I could most likely redpoint it with a few more tries. The hard part is finding reasonable feet between the good holds.
  • Encore! mon lapin, 5.4+, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I seconded  up after Gen lead it and tried the direct start (5.10?).  

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