Monday, February 28, 2011

New dogbones



I decided to replace the dogbones on my oldest draws since the webbing has started to get stiff and show its age. I think these draws are around 10 years old. I found last year I was favouring my new draws even though I know these ones will hold falls. Even at half strength they would hold 11 KN which is more that most stoppers are rated too. However, at $2.50 each from MEC the new ones offer peace of mind for less than $15. It is a no-brainer; not worrying about gear is priceless.

In other news I plan to return to the gym tonight after about two weeks off. Cynthia and I got married in Quebec City February 19th. We had a wonderful time. The time off has hopefully helped my finger heal a bit too.

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

Monday, February 7, 2011

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Thursday, February 3, 2011

Fingers, cams and books

So it has been almost a month since I injured my finger and I think there are finally some signs of improvement. For the most part it is just not as sore in the morning when I wake up and the recovery time after climbing is going down. In an effort to continue in this direction, I decided not to go to the gym Thursday. The key now is not to do something stupid in the next two months and have a setback. That is, I need to keep focused on the long term and not the short term enjoyment of working a hard problem. Given that we were on the rock in March last year, outdoor climbing is not that far away.

To pass the time I've read two books,
  • 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, by Dave MacLeod; and
  • Climbing Anchors 2nd ed. , by John Long and Bob Gaines.
Both are great books and are worth picking up if you don't already own them.

In other news I picked up some used Metolius cams off Mountain Project to complement my BD C4s and C3s. My rack now has 19 cams and a set of nuts weighting in at about 6 pounds. Crazy, I know.