Saturday, June 11, 2011

Slow day in Gatineau

It was an uneventful day of climbing in the Western CWM today. I grabbed a belay on Neruda from a group of climbers in exchange for Al on the run beta. Then I moved to North Wall and sent routes B and C on lead solo. Route C takes a lot of small gear, all of which felt finicky today.

Wednesday, June 8, 2011

Lists are good, spring season review

It is now mid June, hard to believe really, and it feels like very little outdoor climbing has been done. Of course April was a wash with Ottawa setting a new rainfall record and there is a myriad of other reasons (excuses). Bugs and heat being the top two. So it is time to make a list to see where I stand in terms of this year's goals.


From my January 1st post, A new year for climbing:

  • Get more multi-pitch experience. Go to Weir (Yellow Line, Black and White), the Dacks (Endless list of climbs here) and the Whites Mountains (Moby Grape and may others).
  • Look for/climb new/old routes at Calabogie.
  • Climb more 5.10 gear routes at Montagne d'Argent.
  • Just get out and climb!


Note that I will continue to update the lists as I climb more stuff.
Last Update: Nov 6th

New routes: attempted or completed
  • Flakely flake, 5.4, gear, Calabogie
    • April 2nd, onsight
  • Poussinet / Le lapin au tambour linkup, 5.4, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, onsight
  • Colonel Kirtz, 5.10a, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, lead attempt, fell a couple times
    • Sept 11th, lead attempt, clean on all but top out
  • Hannibal Lecter, 5.9+, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • May 4th, flashed
    • Sept 11th, cruised on TR 
  • Diedre Maboul, 5.5-, 17m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, onsight
  • La paume de Bouddha, 5.10d, 10m, 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, worked the moves on lead
  • Encore! mon lapin, 5.4+, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, seconded and tried direct start (5.10?)
  • Coeur vaillant, 5.10b, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou 
    • May 13th, lead attempt, fell at crux a couple time, sent clean on TR after lead attempt
  • La Saint-Ambroise, 5.9, 20m, 6 bolts, 20m, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • L'ecaille du dragon, 5.8, 25m, 3 bolts + gear, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • La Gaillarde 5.8, 25m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, Antre du Dragon
    • May 24th, onsigh
  • Conjonction de cellulaires, 5.9, 14m, 5 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Vertigineux
    • May 24th, onsight
  • La Valse, 5.6, 20m, gear, Val David, Chico et Valse - Mont Cesaire
    • July 3rd, onsight
  • La Brute, 5.8, 15m ?, gear, Val David, Chico et Valse - Mont Cesaire
    • July 3rd, onsight
  • Mr Clean, 5.9, 60 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, pumpy warm up; rested on a cam
  • Big Bertha, 5.6, 60 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, onsight
  • Fun CiTy, 5.7, 100 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, onsight
  • Fun Country, 5.10, 100 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, many attempts at the flared crack crux over the bulge
  • Yakapodu, 5.6, 90 feet, gear, Adirondacks,Barkeater Cliff
    • July 19th, down climbed to the ground from within 20 feet of the top; it got in my head too much
  • Gobelin, 5.7, 18m , gear, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Sevrage, 5.10b, sport 5 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Goglu, 5.10b, 15m sport 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, onsight
  • Fudge, 5.10c, 15m sport 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent,Paroi Oblique
    • July 31th, clean on TR 
  • P1 Balck and White, 5.9, gear, Weir, Black and White Wall
    • Sept 17th, onsight
  • Apportez votre vin, 5.10,  sport 4 bolts,Weir, Club Sandwich Wall
    • Sept 17th, lead attempt, grabbed a draw to clip it - tricky for the grade  
  • unknown, 5.6 ish, gear, Weir, ??? Wall
    • Sept 17th, onsight 
Previously climbed routes: repeats and  TRs
  • Route B, 5.4, gear, Gatineau North Wall
    • February 5th, lead solo
    • June 11th, lead solo
    • Oct 1st, lead
  • Retro bolted Calabogie Sunset direct, no grade (5.7), 3 bolts + gear, Calabogie
    • March 20, lead
    • April 2nd, lead
    • Nov 6th, lead
  • New line left of First Flight, no grade (5.8), 3 bolts + gear, Calabogie,
    • March 20, lead plus a repeat on TR
    • April 2nd, lead
    • Sept 5th, lead and TR
    • Nov 6th, lead 
  • Vulcan mind direct, no grade (5.11+), 3 bolts +gear, Calabogie
    • March 20, TR
    • Sept 5th, TR clean
    • Nov 6th, TR clean, felt like I could lead it although the pro is thin at the top.
  • Noname between Phaser's on Kill and Beam me up Scotty (11d?), bolts and gear, Calabogie
    • Sept 5th, TR with many hangs
  • Left noname slab, no grade (5.6), bolts, Calabogie 
    • April 2nd, lead
  • First Flight, 5.8, bolts, Calabogie
    • April 2nd, TR
    • Nov 6th, lead
  • Piton Highway, 5.7, 3 bolts + gear, Gatineau, Home Cliff
    • April 3rd, lead
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • Peggy, 5.7, 1 bolt + 1 pin + gear, Gatineau, Home Cliff
    • April 3rd, TR
  • Neruda, 5.6, gear, Gatineau Cave Wall
    • April 17th, lead solo
    • May 8th, lead
    • June 11th, lead
    • July 2nd, lead solo
    • July 9th, lead
    • Oct 1st, lead and TR lap
  • Al on the run, 5.11c, 4 bolts, Gatineau, Cave Wall
    • May 8th, 2 TR attempts, 2nd go was clean no hangs
    • July 9th, 2 laps on TR
    • Oct 1st, TR lap
  • Security, 5.10d, 2 bolts + gear, Gatineau, Cave Wall
    • May 8th, 2 lead attempts plus once clean on TR
    • July 9th, TR
    • Oct 1st, TR lap and clean lead (1st bolt pre-clipped)
  • P1 Lollypops, 5.9+, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, lead
  • P2 Maudit fou, 5.10b, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, lead
  • Krakatoa, 5.9+, bolts, Montagne d'Argent, Le fou
    • May 13th, TR
  • Sausages, 5.10c, 5 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, lead
  • El Ninjo, 5.12a, 4 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, 2 TR attempts, best attempt with one hang
  • Catwomen, 5.11b, 3 bolts, Gatineau, Downunder
    • June 1st, lead attempt, hang at 2nd bolt
  • Route C, 5.5, gear, Gatineau North Wall
    • June 11th, lead solo
    • Oct 1st, lead
  • Main corner, 5.3, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • One up, 5.7, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, lead
  • "nameless" crack, 5.10b, gear, Home Cliff
    • Aug 20th, first lead attempt - lots of hanging
  • Mr Toady's Dihedral, 5.8, gear + 1 bolt, CWM, Reaper
    • Oct 1st, TR lap
  • Still another climb, 5.4, gear, CWM, North Wall
    • Oct 1st, lead

          Tuesday, June 7, 2011

          Canoe map

          A route in the Kawartha Highlands.


          Thursday, June 2, 2011

          Being sporty at Downunder

          While trying to decided where there would be the least bugs in Gatineau the suggestion of Downunder was put forward. I'm never super keen on Downunder. I'm not even sure why this is the case. It might be that I really enjoy the challenge of gear climbs or that I like weird far off places but in all honesty it is most likely because the routes there are hard. I'll say it, the routes at Downunder are/can be intimidating. I just cannot get into a sport climbing go for it or pitch off at anytime mind set that is needed to work some of those routes. Anyway, mid conversation Pete mentions that he has never actual climbed at Downunder. Ok, that changes everything.

          After a coffee run to Bridgehead, Pete and I head to Luskville. The sun is hot even for 10:30 am and the mosquitoes make themselves known on the approach as we follow the trail from the parking on Hotel de Ville. However, not long after we reach the cliff,  the wind picked up and we were more or less bug free all day. Another plus is that the cliff is in the shade until 3 ish making it a great summer destination. It really was prefect conditions.

          Being Pete's first time climbing at Downunder there was no question that he would get the first lead on the warm up, Sausages 5.10c. Everyone likes to talk about how easy Sausages is, and is, if you have it ruthlessly wired. It can be another story if you are not a Downunder regular. We are not. The longer you take the more the pump builds; Sausages is overhanging by a good ten feet top to bottom.

          Pete cruises through the crux between the first and second bolt, and is clipping the third in good time. Moving onto the fourth the pump and not knowing where to go force him back down. Unable to find a rest spot the clock is ticking and he has to take. After resting and getting some beta from me, Pete clips the fourth bolt and moves to the no hand rest. The rest is a large flake/horn feature that you can mount like a saddle and with the appropriate position (toe hook). Unfortunately the pump is too much and Pete lowers off.

          With the rope pulled, it is my turn. I have the advantage of having climbed Sausages a hand full of times so I moved at a good pace to the saddle feature. Relaxed, I can shake out and de-pump. I sort of forgot/messed up the end sequence but pulled it off none the less. With a toprope in place Pete gives it another shot.

          After Sausages, I gave El Ninjo 5.12a two burns on TR. All the winter bouldering in gym has definitely payed off as the moves and the crux of El Ninjo seemed much easier than I remember. I one hanged it first go. The key for me, to get this clean, is getting the sequence right just after the third bolt. I like the idea of ground up efforts and this is how I operate when it comes to trad climbs. I lead them when I feel I'm ready. However, for sport climbs at my limit I tend to TR the line first if there is a potential fall hazard. In El Ninjo's case there is a ground fall potential it you try to high clip the fourth bolt during the crux. It is a real no-no. IN fact there are a number of climbs at Downunder where the guidebook states "Fro your safety, clip the ____ (third/fourth) bolt after having done the crux". I have seen people come quite close to the ground, scary. So you got to be able to climb through. If you blow the crux while climbing through there is a big fall that I'm just not willing to take. 

          I ended my day at Downunder by leading Catwoman 5.11b, although not clean. I put an orange metolius powercam in to protect the moves to the first bolt. On Catwoman, like a number of  Downunder climbs, a fall before the first bolt has potential to be very, very, bad due to the landing. Everything went as planned until I got my hands reversed after the second bolt. All well, next time I'll get it right (hopefully). After working out my hands I finish the climb.       

          So will I return to Downunder this summer? Most likely, Pete needs to redpoint Sausages anyway. The end goal of course would be to climb the Downunder testpiece, Anti-Gravity 5.12c. It would take a lot of projecting work and that really is not my style.