Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Weir, a first look

OK, I'm way behind in posting this so I'll keep it short. Matt, Andrew, Hedy and I checked out Weir last Saturday. The main cliff is impressive and it is a must stop destination for anyone in the region. Looking at the 80m cliff definitely made any route that I have done at Montagne d'Argent, Calabogie and Gatineau feel insignificant.

1) Watch out for poison ivy. If you get off the trail you may find yourself up to your waist in the stuff before you know it.
2) Weir is hot, crazy hot even in September so bring lots of water. I can see climbing there into November if it is sunny.
3) Weir's super fine gain granite is very smooth, almost slick, which can make a seemingly easy looking route into a tricky endeavor. For example, the 1st pitch of Black and White looked straight forward enough from the ground but it turned into a slow grind; a mental battle from the get go. I did manage to get the onsight but it was hard enough to scare me away from the upper pitches. Next time.

Me moving through the crux, P1 Black and White. Photo: Hedy Lau

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

La Petit folie, part deux

Boxing or crack climbing during a flood?
Note I'm wearing a different colour shirt too!
I ended up making a spontaneous trip to Montagne d`Argent on Sunday after getting a call from Gen.
  • Colonel Kirtz, 5.10a, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, 2nd lead attempt: I decided to tape my hands for this crack after the shredding I received last time. I climbed clean all the way to the top but I messed up the top out. It will go next time for sure.
  • Hannibal Lecter, 5.9+, 10m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I cruised Hannibal on TR after Gen lead it. 
  • Diedre Maboul, 5.5-, 17m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, onsight: This dirty crack was the warm up and I would not recommend it to anyone unless you like slinging roots for pro. Also there are no anchors so once you have belayed up your second there is a walk off to climbers right.
  • La paume de Bouddha, 5.10d, 10m, 4 bolts, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I worked the moves on lead. It does not feel like a particularly hard climb and I could most likely redpoint it with a few more tries. The hard part is finding reasonable feet between the good holds.
  • Encore! mon lapin, 5.4+, 20m, gear, Montagne d'Argent, La Petit folie
    • Sept 11th, I seconded  up after Gen lead it and tried the direct start (5.10?).  

    Monday, September 5, 2011

    The Calabogie I know.

    Me leading an unnamed 5.8, 3 bolts + gear
    I was at Calabogie today for the first time since Apirl 2nd with large group of Ottawa climbers. I did not lead much, I mostly worked the moves of the direct start to Vulcan Mind and another harder unnamed route. I sent Vulcan Mind clean on my second attempt but butchered the other route. The weather was chilly, windy at times and overcast; that's the Calabogie I know.

    Photo by Andrew Pallek.

    Friday, September 2, 2011

    Looking for rock

    Now that I'm working it seems I have less time to write about climbing. Since my last post I've made a trip to Home Cliff and tomorrow we are going to look for rock in the Lanaudiere area. One possible stop is Paroi du Lac Clair. Hopefully I'm come back with a full report early next week.

    edit: I did not end up going climbing but I did do an easy hike in Gatineau.