Sunday, October 30, 2011

What will November bring?

The climbing days are definitely limited now and winter is just around the corner. With the rain, life and other commitments, October slipped by without much climbing on the rock. As much as I enjoy pulling on plastic twice a week, I enjoy trad climbing that much more.    

So, what will November bring? If the weather is good then a couple enjoyable days on the rock would be nice. Keep your fingers crossed.  

Monday, October 17, 2011

Fall Classic

When rain and life gets in the way of climbing there is aways the gym. I started in on the fall classic problems at Coyote tonight and managed to tick off all the easy stuff.

1-10 done
11-20 done
21-30 done (29 is a dyno and took three tries; not my cup of tea)
31-40 done
41-42 and 53 done

I suspect the rest of the 40's and 50's will take much longer to complete.


I only manage to tick off 44 and 47 on Thursday but 49, 51 and 57 seem do able with a little more work.


Only finished 59 tonight with 51 and 57 still needing work.


Ticking off the harder problems is definitely a slow process. After simplely using a lower foot chip, as suggested by Andrew, 51 went down last night. I repeated a number of climbs like 44, 59 and touched the last hold on 55. Problem 57 remains undone but 58 now seems reasonable if I can stick the start moves.

Update Oct 31st:

55 and 60 got ticked off tonight with 45 to be almost a sure send next time. I gave 64 and 62 a few tries as well.

Update Nov 3th:

Well 45 went down but not without a fight; I feel off the final hold three times before sticking it. After that, I work on some other problems like 48, 58 and 62 without much success. I believe 48 will go if I'm rested. It's strange, I felt like I had made real progress in bouldering this year only to be beat down by numerous so called "easy" problems (comp problems in the 40's) at the gym. 

Done to date:

1-10 done
11-20 done
21-30 done
31-40 done
41,42,43,44, 45, 46, 47 done
51, 53, 55, 59 done
60 done

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Fall weather climbing

My friend Carla came to visit this past Saturday and get in some climbing before she leaves for Switzerland. It was great to see Carla again. Also, along for the trip was Dan and Mel.

Getting out climbing this time of year is hit or miss and you never know which outing will be the last, so you have to make the most of them. With that in mind I climbed nine routes (not all distinct) in the Western CWM.

We warmed up on North Wall since Carla had not touched real rock in awhile. I lead "Route B", "Route C" and "Still another Climb". Afterward it was off to Cave Wall I lead "Neruda" and followed that with a TR lap, after Carla ran up it, to move the anchors over to Security. My TR lap on Security felt relativity easy compared to past outings. Next up, "Al on the run" which went clean on TR also.

Feeling motivated I then sent "Security" on lead with the first bolt pre-clipped. The bolting on "Security" is from an era in climbing when being "bold" was important. Not only is there a ground fall potential at the beginning but there is also potential for a very serious fall between the second (last) bolt and the anchors. Security is not a sport route. Don't get me wrong though, I really enjoyed my lead. Anyway, we rounded out the day seconding up Mr. Toady's Dihedral after Dan lead it.