Sunday, April 22, 2012

Spring update

Ok so I'm a bit behind on my climbing posts so hopefully after this one I'll stay on track. Last weekend I headed out to Calabogie to meet a group of the usual suspects. I arrived a little early so to past the time I lead soloed up the retro bolted Calabogie sunset. By the time I clipped the second bolt the others had started to roll in. As always I self belayed with a grigri and used trees for a solid ground anchor. Afterward I lead Phasers on Kill using my preferred end variation with Pete coming up as a second. Finally, I sent the Vulcan Mind direct cleanly on TR. The rest of my day I spent hiking out to the newly developed area at the far end above the lake. The climbs, mixed (bolts and gear) mid 10s and others look like fun; definitely worth checking out next time.

With a later start and iffy weather Matt and I climbed locally today at crag that will remain nameless. It is a longer approach compared to our usual spots; it took us about 50 minutes. There are three cracks there, at  5.5,  5.9+ and  5.8 all of which are partial sandbags in my opinion if you compare them to Neruda for instance. I lead all three but only the 5.5 cleanly. The other two cracks will go now that I have my gear beta worked out; I kept putting gear in all the good spots instead of my hands. The 5.9+ takes a number of small pieces. At the crux I placed a #0,#1 C3 and a small blue tcu followed by a #4 BD micro stopper and a #000 C3 after the mantle. Since the #000 is only rated to 4kn I ended up replacing it with a 0.3 BD cam soon after placing it. All in all a good day.

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