Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Climbs to date, 2012

It does not seems like much climbing and it is already the end of August. Of course, I could list off a number of reasons but that is not the point. The point is, fall is here and the number of climbing days is now disappearing fast. Let's hope for good weather.


Climb
Grade
Area
date(s)
notes
Route A
5.4 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Route B
5.4 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Route C
5.5 trad
North Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 10th
lead
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 31st
lead solo
Al on the Run
5.11c sport
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
March 31st
lead attempt - no redpoint
Calabogie Sunset
5.5 mixed
Calabogie
April 14th
lead solo
Phasers on Kill
5.7 trad
Calabogie
April 14th
lead, my variation
Vulcan Mind direct
5.11b/c mixed
Calabogie
April 14th
TR-clean
Fire Free
5.5 trad
Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - clean (basically flash
 - climbed it 3 years ago)
Grolsch
5.8 trad
 Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - take 3 #1 BD or use
 rigid friend and 2 #1 BD,
 not a clean ascent
Johnny Rock
5.9+ trad
 Gatineau Park
April 22nd
lead - small gear - #0,#1 C3
 and blue tcu at crux, not clean

Bitter Fingers
5.6 trad
Gatineau Park
April 28 th
lead - awkward, committing start
Slippery when wet
5.10d sport
Gatineau Park
April 28 th
lead - was a bit wet
Wish you were here
5.12b/c sport
 Gatineau Park
April 28 th
Worked on TR, multiple hangs,
did all the moves
Neruda
5.6 trad
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
lead
Security
5.10d mixed
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
TR - clean
Al on the Run
5.11c sport
Cave Wall, Gatineau Park
May 12 th
lead attempt - no redpoint
Rockaholic
5.8 trad
Beer Walls, Daks
May 19 th
Onsight
Clutch and cruise
5.8+ trad
Beer Walls, Daks
May 19 th
Couple hangs to get over roof
Gob Hoblin
5.7 trad
Creature Wall, Daks
May 20 th
Onsight
Le Recoin
5.7+ trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight, wide, 2 (3 would
 be better)  #4 BD, lead then
 lap on TR to clean
Pas de Face
5.10c trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight,  4 bolts now, gear
up top, lead then lap on TR
 to clean
Bloody Hand
5.7 trad
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
onsight, Finished after Matt
and Jeff backed off
Nez en Moins
5.11a
Mont Condor, Val David
May 26 th
TR - one hang, slipped
off mantle
L'hypothenuse
5.7+ trad
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Onsight, good pro,
easy warm up, 5.7 at most
L'envers de l'arete
5.10b trad
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead, one hang, easy redpoint
 next time, must do route
Tally-ho
5.11b sport
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead attempt, rotten crumbly
rock, not fun, bailed off third
 bolt
Dad's
5.10b sport
L'hippocampe, Montagne d'Argent
June 10th
Lead, climbed to second
 last bolt and exited to the side
Line left of First Flight
5.8 ? mixed
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead, 3 bolts + gear
First Flight retro bolted
5.8 sport
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead
Phasers on Kill
5.7 trad
Calabogie
June 23rd
lead, my variation
Phasers on stun
5.5 trad
Calabogie
June 23rd
TR in approach shoes
Tipytoe
5.11d mixed
Calabogie
June 23rd
TR, 2 bolts + gear, easier
than Vulcan Mind direct,
 Incorrect start?
Combustion Lente
5.8 trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Onsight, Ok, not that great
Crocodile
5.9+ trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Onsight, Good climb after
the broken beginning,
hand/fist crack is good, goes on
 up a lichen cover slab, 60m
 rope is just enough.
Invitation Mixte
5.10b mixed
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Lead, (TR once two years ago)
 Gear is small and tricky, lots
 of the best gear spots at the best holds
Madame la Marquise
5.6- trad
Grand Canyon, Montagne d'Argent
July 22nd
Lead, straight forward, a bit cleaner than last time
After the Gold Rush
5.9 mixed
Calabogie
July 29th
Onsight attempt, ended up aiding a section on small wires, did the direct finish
Head Banger
5.10a mixed
Calabogie
July 29th
TR
Head Banger
5.10a mixed
Calabogie
Aug 19th
redpoint
Tampon Applicator
5.10b/c sport
Calabogie
Aug 19th
TR - couple tries to pull roof

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