Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Rained out at Calabogie

Cynthia and I met up with Andrew, Matt and Hedy at Calabogie on Sunday. Although we got rained out after a couple climbs it was a good day.

Cynthia and I approached the routes, near Head Banger, by the blue trail across the top of the cliff. This is the safest option and there is no poison ivy to avoid. You can either get down by rapping from above or finding the short downclimb (with a knotted rope) 15m left of Head Banger. The downclimb is way faster than rapping. However, if you do not know where you are going then finding the top of Live Rust is most likely the easiest option. 

Me in red, warming up on Head Banger 5.10a

  I warmed up on Head Banger 5.10a, a mixed climb with 4 bolts and anchors at the top. You could climb it without gear but the runout after the third bolt might put you in ground fall territory. Although the crux of the climb is protected by bolts. Anyway I placed a 0.5 and a 0.75 C4 in between the third and four bolt. With the dark clouds looming I decided not lead a new route and take try at Tampon Applicator 5.10b/c on TR. The roof is definitely the crux and it took me a couple tries to figure out the beta.

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