Sunday, September 16, 2012

Calabogie, the new and the old

Headed out to Calabogie with Matt and Hedy today, great weather. To keep it short I started on After the Gold Rush 5.9 hoping to make a better showing this time around. It is a hard 5.9. I still did not get it clean but I managed to climb through the sections where I pulled on gear last time. Small wires are definitely the key (for me) to this climb as cams would use up all the good holds. The direct finish gave me a bit of trouble since I was so pumped from the rest of the climb. Next time.

Next up was a sport climb called Neat cafe 5.11b. Clipping the first and second bolt was not too bad but I missed a key crimp heading toward the third. Pulling over the bulge after the third bolt is harder than it looks. Once over the bulge I got suckered into the corner and getting back seemed unlikely so I traversed into Res-erection 5.10d and finished. I managed to flash Res-erection on TR afterward.

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