Sunday, September 9, 2012

Western CWM, climbing the classics

After heavy rain and winds on Saturday, Sunday shaped up to be a good climbing day. Matt and I headed out to Gatineau without any real destination in mind and ended up at the base of Bitter Fingers.

Bitter Fingers 5.6 felt quite a bit easier this time around as I know the route and what to expect. As I mentioned before this is a first generation climb so don't under estimate this climb. Is it hard for a 5.10 climber? Of course not but it maybe tricky if you are new to trad climbs of this sort. Anyway, on the way up I got my red #1 C3 welded into a crack with one of the cam lobes inverted. It was not a pretty sight. After a hopeless battle, I was going to need some tools, I moved on to finish the climb. On the way down I place three cams to make an anchor so that Matt could take me off belay and send up my Swiss army knife and nut tool. With tools in hand I extracted my cam in minutes, no problems.

With most other climbs in the area still dripping we decided to move on. Interestingly, we noticed someone is working Dragon's Breath 5.13c and that Sexy White Pimp Cars 5.10a has been chopped. Note that anchors that it shares with Bitter Fingers are still intact. It was not a notable climb by any means but it had been there since the 1990's. Whoever the chopper is, at least they did a good clean job and covered the ends of the studs with epoxy.

Next up was Mr Toady's Dihedral 5.8, another Halka/Cotter special. The climb starts off fairly straight forward and is well protect up to a point. The crux takes some though so don't rush it. I onsighted Mr Toady's Dihedral a few weeks into my trad climbing career and looking back now it seems like a ridiculous route to cut your teeth on.

The anchors of Krispy Kreme (5.11?) are next to Mr Toady's Dihedral  so we gave it a go on TR. I gave it two separate tries, getting to the top each time but neither in continuous manner. For me the crux is between the second and third bolt. I have all the moves worked out and it is just a matter of getting my foot beta correct.

Finally, what is a trip to the CWM without a lap on Neruda 5.6? To finish off the day I lead up Neruda and notice a new foothold has appeared near the top of the climb. I would not have guess that there was any loose rock high on that climb.

No comments:

Post a Comment