I was out at Calabogie yesterday with Matt, Andrew, Iris and Pete. Nothing epic was climbed but it was nice to get outside. For the most part I lead some easy routes like the retro bolted First Flight and the unnamed line left of it. I also did Phasers on Kill with the traverse variation at the end to the anchors of Phasers on stun. Phaser on Kill, although straight forward, does involve a certain amount of risk. If you are thinking of leading Phasers on Kill and you are new to placing gear here is my 2 cents.
- Be wary of the ground fall potential at the start. After the placing a 0.3 C4 you must commit to making the moves over the small bulge to gain the vertical crack. A fall from above the bulge would almost surely be a grounder.
- Take the time to ensure a bomber second piece in the vertical crack above the bulge. There are plenty of good cam placements here and also plenty of bad ones given the nature of the crack. I usually place a #.75 waist level and then high clip, at an arms length above my head, a #1 C4.
- Like any climb don't trust the rusty pin.
- The rock quality shifts toward poor after you pass the old rusted pin above the vertical crack. Find the good placements among the various horizontal cracks.
- At this point in the climb there is way too much protruding rock, don't fall.
On a side note watch out for the poison ivy. It is extra thick this year in the ice climbing areas so stay low on the approach trail to avoid the worst of it. Leaves of three, let them be.