Saturday, November 24, 2012

A new look

It is too cold to be on the rock today and my shoulder is unhappy from last week's gym sessions so I decided to update/shuffle the images on my blog. The main layout remains the same with the header and sidebar images switched up. Below is a screen shot of the old look. 

Monday, November 19, 2012

More November climbing in the CWM

Being able to get out climbing yesterday,  after a couple days of travelling for work, was priceless. On the way to Cave Wall Pete and I stopped off to lead Bitter Fingers. It was a cool morning.

With the over night temperature now below zero the rock was cold and unforgiving at first. I motored up Bitter Fingers to avoid freezing my fingers. Pete on the other hand, on his onsight attempt, took more time and with wooden fingers took a short fall onto a solid #2 camalot. The beginning of Bitter Fingers is not as straight forward as it looks.

Once Bitter Fingers was ticked off we moved to Cave Wall for a quick lap on Neruda, as the second warm up climb. Cave Wall gets all day sun this time of year (since the leaves are off the trees) so it is a good choice in cooler temps. By leading Bitter Fingers and Neruda first, it gave Al on the run some time to warm up.     

I have been giving Al on the run a lead attempt here and there through out the year when I'm in the CWM. I figure one of these times I'll get the redpoint. This last attempt was my best yet. I climbed through to the roof, clipped the third draw, clipped the rope but ran out of gas trying to pull over the roof. After a short hang I lowered a bit, pulled the roof and finish off the climb. So close.

Next up I decided to lead Security. The bottom went fine but I screwed up my feet and hands just past the first bolt and off I went. At this point I was not really sure I wanted to continue. In the end I did get back on and with some encouragement (heckling) from Pete I clawed my way to the top. A good day indeed.


Sunday, November 11, 2012

In the CWM, it's November already!

Well today's climbing plans were cancelled due to rain so I ended up filling leaf bags all day with yard waste. I guess it is November already. The number of possible outdoor days is now approaching zero as work, weather and other commits are getting in the way of climbing. Who knows, maybe last weekend's outing to the CWM with be the last of the season. I hope not.

Last weekend, I hit the Western CWM to run a few lead solo laps on the usual routes. I figure that this late in the season I would have the place to myself. So it was to my surprise to find the place packed with Algonquin College students taking an outdoors course. --- I also saw a few of the usual suspects in the CWM. I hope you had a good day Mr Gibbs and crew---- This meant most of my easy lead solo route were occupied. Luckily, I ran into some other climbers (Max, Jerry, Nancy? (I'm bad with names, sorry if this is not right)) in the parking lot on the way in which means I had more route options.

I decided to warm-up by leading Al on the run. For me this is far from a warm-up but I did manage to clip the 2nd bolt without trouble. The trouble came as I pumped out heading toward the third bolt after the crux moves. I tried Al on the run three times from the ground and even got above the roof only to pump out and come off trying to get my weight over my heel hook. I believe if I warmed up properly I could get the redpoint.

To work the pump out of my arms I lead Neruda and then returned to Al on the run to send it on TR. I also ran a TR lap on Security which flowed super well that day. To cap off the day I lead Bitter Fingers. For a no expectation day it turned out to be lots of fun.