Pete, Iris and I headed out to Calabogie on Sunday for a day of local climbing. We arrived to find damp routes and luckly very few black flies. First up, we headed to Stage left and Stage right so Iris could give them a go. Despite the water on both I found them easy leads; the 5.9 and 5.8 grades on these climbs are way out of whack with the rest of Calabogie.
Later in the day I gave the fly a go on lead and man did it feel hard. Definitely
harder than the old 5.9 grade it gets in the guide. After numerous falls
trying to pull the roof I felt like I was going to puke. The gear is
all there, take both big and small cams/ nuts. After finally pulling the
roof the route eases to an enjoyable finish.
The beginning moves, to get up on the slab, are indeed adequately protectable; I used a #6 BD mirco nut nested with a #2 c3. Make sure you are comfortable/confident with this gear, a fall off the slab would be rather ugly. Once on the slab I placed a #0 c3 to protect my transition right to gain the crack. With a .4 c4 place in the crack I pulled the #0 c3 to reduce future rope drag and then climbed higher placing a #2 c4. I fall on the roof will place an upward pull on these lower piece and will most likely pop the micro nut and #2 c3 give the nature of their placements. So to prevent a further zippering of your gear make sure the .4 is positions to take a upward pull. Now starting up into the roof there is a finger slot that takes a prefect #1 c3 and then a #0 c3 higher. Before getting to the hand crack which takes a #1 C4 there is a bomber but strenuous to place #5 BD stopper placement. I fell on this one a couple times. Finally over the roof you will find a place for a #3 or #4 c4 followed by a solid tree before heading out toward Flaky flake's anchors.
The route is top-ropeable by using Flaky Flake's anchors and placing a redirect off the obvious pine tree.