Sunday, October 13, 2013

Fall climbing


Saturday:
Hedy climbing up Deux Ètoiles 5.7+ at La Bleue in Val David. A nice easy 3-star finger crack with hard slab climbs on either side. After leading up Deux Ètoiles I spent some time on TR working the slab on climbers left, Cristal 5.11c. The crux is just below the second bolt at about the 3/4 mark on the climb.

Later in the day I also lead Bleue Directe 5.8 with the sun starting to dip in the sky. The beginning of the route is protect by 2 bolts; getting to the first one might be the crux of the climb. It is a slab start with a high first bolt, then past a second bolt and into a small chimney feature that leads to a corner. The climbing is not hard but this is a no fall climb as there is just too much hit after the chimney. The slightly overhung corner is well protected by #.75 to #2 C4 cams. The end is sort of run-out and low quality. Its ok, I'm not sure it deserves its 1-star given in the guidebook.     

Sunday:

I hiked into the CWM to lead solo some easy climbs and admire the colour of the Gatineau hills. The Luskville Falls parking lot was a nuthouse with hikers and leaf viewers; I was lucky to get a parking spot.



   


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