Tuesday, June 25, 2013

The Fly, some footage

I put some footage by Iris together of my first attempts at the Fly.

Sunday, June 16, 2013

La Bleue, Val David

Which Crack?


Alp 5.6 - A very enjoyable, although thoughtful in places, warm up with the start shown in the above photo. Lots of gear opportunities and bolted top anchors make for a safe lead.

Androgene 5.9 - I'm not sure where the 5.9 part on this route is; it felt pretty straight forward with solid jams and plentiful gear placements. Perhaps the small offwith section to the top out accounts for the grade if that is not your thing. Note that there are no bolted anchors on this climb but the walk off is easy.

Limace 5.9 - Un bel offwidth, a solid 5.9, this is a must climb! A #5 or #6 C4 would make the lead pretty chill to the horizontal traverse; I had neither. I was forced to run-it-out a little over a tipped out #4 which puts you in a potentially bad position. There is a hidden .75 C4 placement at the top of the offwidth that can be placed, with care, from a rather strenous position. The traverse itself is awesome too and takes gear between #1 and #3 C4. 

Monday, June 10, 2013

Beaten by the Fly

Pete, Iris and I headed out to Calabogie on Sunday for a day of local climbing. We arrived to find damp routes and luckly very few black flies. First up, we headed to Stage left and Stage right so Iris could give them a go. Despite the water on both I found them easy leads; the 5.9 and 5.8 grades on these climbs are way out of whack with the rest of Calabogie.      

Later in the day I gave the fly a go on lead and man did it feel hard. Definitely harder than the old 5.9 grade it gets in the guide. After numerous falls trying to pull the roof I felt like I was going to puke. The gear is all there, take both big and small cams/ nuts. After finally pulling the roof the route eases to an enjoyable finish.

The gear:

The beginning moves, to get up on the slab, are indeed adequately protectable; I used a #6 BD mirco nut nested with a #2 c3. Make sure you are comfortable/confident with this gear, a fall off the slab would be rather ugly. Once on the slab I placed a #0 c3 to protect my transition right to gain the crack. With a .4 c4 place in the crack I pulled the #0 c3 to reduce future rope drag and then climbed higher placing a #2 c4. I fall on the roof will place an upward pull on these lower piece and will most likely pop the micro nut and #2 c3 give the nature of their placements. So to prevent a further zippering of your gear make sure the .4 is positions to take a upward pull. Now starting up into the roof there is a finger slot that takes a prefect #1 c3 and then a #0 c3 higher.  Before getting to the hand crack which takes a #1 C4 there is a bomber but strenuous to place #5 BD stopper placement. I fell on this one a couple times. Finally over the roof you will find a place for a #3 or #4 c4 followed by a solid tree before heading out toward Flaky flake's anchors. 

The route is top-ropeable by using Flaky Flake's anchors and placing a redirect off the obvious pine tree.


Sunday, June 2, 2013

A Fly on the Wall

The Fly at Calabogie is now climbable; it took about 5 hours with a wire brush. There was so much lichen and dirt. I also tossed quite a bit of loose rock too and there is still a few more chunks that most likely should be brought down.

I think it has potential to be a fun lead and the roof hand crack section (crux) look super well protected. The beginning like most pre-retro bolted Calabogie climbs may need a boulder mat .... ha ha.