Sunday, October 13, 2013

Fall climbing

Hedy climbing up Deux √ątoiles 5.7+ at La Bleue in Val David. A nice easy 3-star finger crack with hard slab climbs on either side. After leading up Deux √ątoiles I spent some time on TR working the slab on climbers left, Cristal 5.11c. The crux is just below the second bolt at about the 3/4 mark on the climb.

Later in the day I also lead Bleue Directe 5.8 with the sun starting to dip in the sky. The beginning of the route is protect by 2 bolts; getting to the first one might be the crux of the climb. It is a slab start with a high first bolt, then past a second bolt and into a small chimney feature that leads to a corner. The climbing is not hard but this is a no fall climb as there is just too much hit after the chimney. The slightly overhung corner is well protected by #.75 to #2 C4 cams. The end is sort of run-out and low quality. Its ok, I'm not sure it deserves its 1-star given in the guidebook.     


I hiked into the CWM to lead solo some easy climbs and admire the colour of the Gatineau hills. The Luskville Falls parking lot was a nuthouse with hikers and leaf viewers; I was lucky to get a parking spot.


Tuesday, October 8, 2013

Another shot at the Fly

I took another shot at the Fly at Calabogie this pass weekend with Matt. It felt much easier than on my previous attempt, although I still did not get it clean. I think with a little more effort it will go.

Also, a heads-up if you are heading out to Calabogie, the anchors for Flaky Flake/ The Fly and Homeward bound both had loose bolt hangers. I tightened them the best I could. If you do take a wrench out there then be sure not to over tighten them.

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Fall is here and close to gone

Fall is here and it seems like it is passing by fast. September came and went with a trip to Montagne d'Argent and a second trip back to the Calabogie boulders. The highlights of September include finally attempting and climbing L'hippocampe 5.10b which has to be one of the best lines at Montagne d'Argent. The crack flares to the back in places so place your cams appropriately. The best approach is to climb L'hypothenuse, traversing at the bolt, and topping out to the base of L'hippocampe. As for Calabogie I worked out most of the moves to Ken's Super Slab V5 but came off the top a couple times. That's all for now, hopefully there is some sending weather left before the cold months of winter appear.