Thursday, May 15, 2014

Montagne d'Argent 2014, trip 1

Matt, Andrew, Frank, and I climbed at Montagne d'Argent last Sunday with fantastic weather and
Antre du Dragon all to ourselves. I seemed to have more energy than I expected and managed to climb 4 routes.

L'ecaille du dragon 5.8, 3 bolts and gear 25m - Definitely an aesthetic climb and a nice warm-up with a fun mantle onto the top of the flake.

La Griffon 5.9-, 3 bolts, 25m - I climbed this on TR.

La Saint-Georges 5.10b, gear, 20m - Since this climb is usually wet (at least when I've be there) I was surprised to see it in a mostly dry state. I blew my onsight attempt by committing to a bad sequence of hands and feet after wasting too much time/energy placing gear (the crack is rather irregular in spots). I should be able to get it next time. Gear wise two C4 #3s and #4s are handy.  
 
Titanicomanie. 5.8 mixed route with 3 bolts (Grand Canyon)  -  After 3 bolts this is a long easy crack route that could use a cleaning on the upper slabs.

Tuesday, January 28, 2014

30 routes was hard

I set a new high of 30 routes tonight in about 2.5 hours: one 5.7, six 5.8s, nine 5.9s, thirteen 5.10s and one 5.11+. I climbed the first 20 in groups of 4 routes one after the other. I felt pretty good and ticked off a 5.11+ as my 21st route and a 5.7 as the 22nd. Somewhere after this I started to drop off and by the time I hit my 29th route, a 5.10, I made a real mess of it. I finished on a 5.9. I think I'm going to need to start bring a bit of food and juice to the gym to keep my energy levels up.  

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Settling for 20 this week.

Tonight's gym session amounted to 20 routes: two 5.8s, nine 5.9s, six 5.10s and three 5.11s. Although there is room for error when I get tired I find most of the route getting easier as I memorize the sequences. I guess that means I need to switch up my route selection a bit.

Monday, January 13, 2014

Halfway there, 25 routes

I did 25 routes tonight in 3 hours at Coyote with: two 5.7s, five 5.8s, seven 5.9s, eight 5.10s, and three 5.11s. It felt good to hit the halfway mark in my goal so early on. I think I will take it easier during Wednesday session so I don't over do it.

Thursday, January 9, 2014

A baseline test, 16 routes

On my second night back to the gym after the holidays, I decided to take a test run to see where I'm at in terms of my 1000 foot goal (50 routes) at Coyote. I started out on easy 5.7/5.8s and slowly ramped up toward harder grades. In total, I climbed 16 routes over 2 hours: two 5.7s, seven 5.8s, two 5.9s, two 5.10-, two 5.10+ and one 5.11-. The last climb of the night was a 5.8 and man did it feel hard but 16 routes is encouraging.